Build a kitchen trolley

  • 1. Cutting out the opening for the bottles
  • 2. Joining the carcass sections together
  • 2. Joining the carcass sections together
  • 2. Joining the carcass sections together
  • 3. Joining the drawer sections together and fitting the handle
  • 3. Joining the drawer sections together and fitting the handle
  • 3. Joining the drawer sections together and fitting the handle
  • 5.-Mounting the Castors
  • 6. Preparing the surfaces
  • 8. Painting the visable surfaces
Date:17 May 2013 Tags:, , ,

Next time you’re whipping up some magic in the kitchen, take advantage of our willing assistant. Fixed on castors to provide easy mobility, our kitchen trolley can be stationed wherever you need it. A recessed compartment safely stores your bottles, while the drawer offers space for small implements.

The design essentially consists of several shelf bases that are fastened between the side panels with screws. The top compartment is divided by a centre side panel that is fastened with screws to the two upper shelf bases. Make sure that the swivel castors are on the same side as the handle for pushing the trolley. Tip: If you want the use the cover panel as a worktop, you should replace the painted MDF with an oiled beech glued laminated timber board.

The following construction guide applies to 19 mm-thick medium-density fibreboard (MDF). You must adapt the list of materials accordingly if you opt for other materials or material with a different thickness. Set aside a weekend for the project.

Ask your DIY store or a friendly carpenter to cut the required boards to size

Pieces Designation Length Width Thickness
2 Carcass – Side panels 801 mm 358 mm 19 mm
4 Carcass – Shelf bases 658 mm 358 mm 19 mm
1 Carcass – Rear panel 692 mm 157 mm 19 mm
1 Carcass – Centre side panel 123 mm 358 mm 19 mm
1 Carcass – Sideboard top 700 mm 400 mm 19 mm
2 Fixed castors, diameter 100 mm
2 Guide castors, diameter 100 mm
2 Handles 250 mm
2 Drawer – Side panels 350 mm 100 mm 12 mm
2 Drawer – Front/rear section 271 mm 100 mm 12 mm
1 Drawer – Base 295 mm 350 mm 4 mm
1 Drawer – Front panel 354 mm 157 mm 19 mm
approx. 30 Flat head screws 4 x 40 mm
4 Flat head screws 4 x 35 mm
approx 28 Flat head screws 3 x 25 mm
6 Flat head screws 3 x 15 mm
4 Knurled screws 4 x 25 mm
appox. 16 Round head screws 5 x 20 mm


Required power tools:
Jigsaw, multi-sander, impact drill, cordless screwdriver, fine spray system

Other accessories
Set of wood drill bits, countersink bit, sanding paper, grits of 120–240, folding rule, soft pencil, rubber, pencil sharpener, trestles, putty or wood putty

Required materials
Medium-density fibreboard (MDF), fixed castors, swivel castors, handles, paint

1.    Cutting out the opening for the bottles
Using a pencil, draw the rectangular opening (measuring 250 x 150 mm) on the cover panel and uppermost shelf base. Make sure that the cut-out is not at the same distance from the short panel edge, due to the differing lengths of the panels (the uppermost shelf base is enclosed within the side panels, with the cover panel on top).

Using the drill and 10 mm wood drill bit, make holes inside the four corner markings. The drill bit must only barely touch the pencil lines, not intersect them. Now insert the saw blade of the jigsaw in one of the holes while it is switched off. Cut the opening along the inside edge of the pencil line from one hole to the next. If you do not want rounded corners, guide the jigsaw fully into the angles.

2. Joining the carcass sections together
Place the two side panels and the four shelf bases on their sides on top of your work surface in the way you want to assemble the sections. Trace the outline of the shelf bases on the insides of the side panels. Be careful that nothing budges while you draw the lines. Then re-check the position of the shelf bases using the folding rule, in accordance with the dimensions in the drawing.

Mark the positions of three holes centrally in each outline. Pre-drill the holes (12 in total) in each side panel using the drill and 4 mm drill bit, and countersink these holes on the outsides of the panels.

Start the assembly procedure with the two uppermost shelf bases. Join these with the centre side panel to form a double T-beam. To do this, mark the centre crossline on the relevant areas of the two bases in pencil. Pre-drill three holes in each line using the drill and 4 mm drill bit; countersink the holes from the top (in the case of the upper shelf base) and from the bottom (in the case of the lower shelf base).

You can now join the two bases and the centre side panel to form the double T-beam mentioned using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 40 mm). Fasten the other side panels and shelf bases together in the same way.

Tip for screwing together two wooden parts
In the piece where you want to insert the screws first, always pre-drill a hole that is 0,5 to 1 mm larger than the screw diameter; the hole should be countersunk for the screw head. In the piece that you are going to drill second, pre-drill a hole that is always 1 mm smaller than the screw diameter.

3.    Joining the drawer sections together and fitting the handle
The front and rear sections of the drawers are enclosed within the (slightly longer) drawer side panels; fasten everything together with screws using a cordless screwdriver and screws (3 x 25 mm) to form a frame, as described in step 2. Place the shelf base on top of this frame so that it is flush with the sides and fix it in place with the cordless screwdriver and screws (3 x 25 mm) on the lower edges.

The next step is to mount the drawer fitting; fasten the pieces on to the drawer and fit their counterparts on the insides of the corresponding side panel and centre side panel, according to the positioning instructions provided by the fitting manufacturer.

You can now slide the drawer into its compartment and then determine the precise location of the front panel. To do this, attach double-sided tape onto the front section of the drawer. Align the front panel on to the front section and press firmly on the adhesive tape. Then carefully remove the drawer and fasten the panel from inside, using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 25 mm).

Make the holes required for the handle fixture in the front panel and then mount the handle as described by the manufacturer. At the same time, fit the trolley handle. For this purpose, use the drill and 4 mm wood drill bit to make two holes in the rear narrow side (this is the side on which the swivel castors will be fitted; the fixed castors go on the front narrow side). Fasten the handle in place with screws.

4. Mounting the cover panel
Place the cover panel on the uppermost shelf base, ensuring that both cut-outs for the bottle opening are exactly congruent with each other. Secure the pieces in position with clamps. Make sure you use pieces of scrap wood as buffer blocks to avoid leaving unsightly pressure marks.

Now fasten the pre-drilled cover panel from above together with the carcass, using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm). Since you have already countersunk the holes, the screw heads are recessed in the surface and may be concealed completely with wood putty and paint. Also refer to our tips on screwing together two pieces of wood in step 2.

5. Mounting the castors
Finally, attach the two fixed castors and the swivel castors under the trolley with screws. Using the cordless screwdriver and flat head screws (5 x 20 mm), fit the fixed castors in front (on the opposite side to the handle) and the swivel castors at the back.

6. Preparing the surfaces
Take time to prepare the surfaces so they are in the best working condition possible before starting assembly. First, fill in the screw holes in the MDF surfaces on display using putty or wood putty. Once the putty is dry (check the manufacturer’s instructions), sand the area smooth using sanding paper with a grit of 120.

First, buff all MDF edges with sanding paper with a grit of 120 at a 45-degree angle to create a small bevel. Use a sander and sanding paper (grit of 120 – 180) to work the MDF surfaces.

7. Surface treatment
First read the manufacturer’s safety and handling instructions thoroughly. Make sure the room you are working in is well ventilated and not used for smoking, eating or drinking. Apply the priming filler with the roller or with a paint spraying system if preferred (we used the PFS 105E fine spray system by Bosch, shown above). Allow it to dry completely. You should change the paint tank if you want to apply another material with your fine spray system in the next step.

MDF surfaces are highly absorbent, and you may need to pay particular attention to the edges (that is, apply several layers). You can skip the time-consuming task of sealing the absorbent surfaces by using MDF with a primer film. This MDF guarantees a perfect finish without fillers, at least on the surfaces. Finely sand the primed surfaces and edges; increase the grit of the sanding paper from 180 to 220 to 240.

8. Painting the visible surfaces
Pour the paint into the paint tank and dilute if necessary with water. Using a test board, adjust the spray jet at the nozzle and the paint flow at the setting wheel. The spray jet can be set to horizontal or vertical for surfaces and tapered for edges. Ideally, you should first paint the inner edges, then the outer edges and then finally the surfaces; work on these with even, parallel strokes.

Tip for painting
A wide range of paints are available, of various types and price categories. The main criteria in choosing a paint should be its workability, the technical equipment you have at home, and the surface quality and durability you require. Ask for advice at a specialist retail outlet. If you are not an experienced painter, we recommend that you practise beforehand on a sample piece. You will achieve the quickest and best result with acrylic paints. It is particularly quick and easy to apply these water-dilutable paints using a fine spray.

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